Friday, January 22, 2010

A Stormy Day in Corozal

Corozal, a small Garifuna village just outside of La Ceiba, has always been a favourite runaway place for me when I decide to escape from the city. By chicken bus (retired, dilapidated school buses) it takes about half an hour to wend your way through La Ceiba and east along the highway, stopping constantly to pick up locals and their bundles, for the princely sum of 11 Lp.

It's not your average tourist destination, no fancy restaurants or nightclubs, no mega malls or air conditioned bars, but it is built along the Caribbean Sea and no matter the level of poverty, nothing can deter from the draw of the ocean for me.

I've watched the changes over the years, the influx of Spanish Hondurans and the occasional "gringo"; some signs of larger homes being built, though not always finished. A large hotel and restaurant was developed on the most easterly end of the beach but now appears to be somewhat empty and neglected. Overall, most of the village is still the same, for me and the people who live there.

Generally, I’ve gone out on sunny days just to spend the afternoon walking the beach, collecting seashells or playing in the waves and then finishing the day with a cold beer and a great seafood meal.

This past Sunday I just couldn’t wait out the pounding rain in the city so bundled up, grabbed my “brolley” and took myself out to Corozal in the hopes that there would be less rain. At the beginning it looked like I may have guessed right – slight sprinkles during the drive out, marginal pitter-patter of rain while walking the beach – but then it all went to that proverbial hand basket down under! The wind roared in, the surf got thick, heavy and dirty brown, and the skies smashed rain down upon the whole of creation!



There is a long established restaurant, “Tio Fito’s” at the west end of the beach that is a weekend runaway for folks from La Ceiba, as well as being a hang out for locals folks, and though there is almost no English spoken there, the folks who run it are quite adept at making sure you get what you need.

By the time I made my way through the village, I arrived at Tio Fito’s soaking wet from the waist down, clutching the remains of my umbrella which had been blown inside out for the final time and simply revelling in the energy of a great storm. Tucked myself into the “locals” side, which also happens to be farthest from the screaming jukebox and curled up with my scribble book while waiting for my meal.

I’m not much of a fish eater, but always look forward to their “Camarones y Ajo”, simply the best garlic prawns I have ever feasted upon. In hindsight I should have taken a photo of my dinner plate – tons of fresh prawns, coconut rice & beans and “tajadas” (sliced plateno that is fried to be both crisp and tender, rather like our “french fries”) but couldn’t wait to start feasting!

As is common here, I shared my leftover tajadas with two little boys, who under the pretext of selling “pan de coco” where also hanging about hoping for donations of leftovers. I had watched them finish up other plates, quite hungrily but also very politely stacking the dishes at the wash up area. Over time, the children have learned to beg for money, which I heartily refuse to give but at the same time, I do feel it’s completely sinful to waste food, thus my own little donation to their cause. And was amply rewarded by their saying “Gracias, amiga” before they dove in to the food.

No matter the pounding rain, blowing sea mist and soaking wet blue jeans, yet again Corozal gave me yet another delightful afternoon adventure…

PS Sorry about the lack of finesse with positioning the video and photos - Blogger doesn't always cooperate with me!


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