Semana Santa aka Silly Season

Semana Santa is the name of Easter Holy Week here in Honduras, or “Silly Season” as my friend Kenneth used to state; you’ll understand why in just a moment.
Semana Santa, at least from my experience here in La Ceiba, has very little to do with religion. Most government offices and schools are closed for the whole week prior, the work week for most workers ends on the Wednesday of the week and banks and other larger stores start closing on Wednesday or Thursday. Even the street markets are closed for Good Friday, as well as their usual Sunday, during this time.

Semana Santa is regarded as the first week of summer and a prime time for vacation travels for Hondurans. As La Ceiba is called the “novia” (sweetheart) of Honduras, it is also a favoured destination and literally thousands pour into the city from throughout the country to take in the beaches, the party atmosphere and even the shopping for those so inclined.

What I call “instant villages” pop up on any scrap of beach, generally starting at the far east of town at the Seaview and stretching from there past the Partenon (as long as Mother Nature has left them some beach after winter storms!). There is a huge empty lot located there where a beer company, “Salva Vida” sets up their own bright yellow village of beer gardens, music stages and various games or “beach soccer” competitions.


This Salva Vida Village is located in Zona Viva, and the rest of the area fills up in the evening with street vendors, sidewalk beer stalls, and street stages with various bands competing for the most ear splitting volume. You can watch (or partake in!) the punta dancing competitions, snack of foods grilled out on the sidewalks, buy a paper glass of beer (wondering which brand? Haha) and slowly stroll the length of the strip if you can handle the noise and the crowds!

 
During the day, the beach side instant villages are filled to overflowing with families bringing the kids for a play day in the water. Dory’s will charter rides, some towing blown up tube shaped “boats” with 2 to 6 folks in life jackets clutching the handles on top as they go rocketing across the waves. Even the local fire department brings out their zodiac to provide some level of water safety!

Needless to say, the beach and Zona Viva are scenes of celebration that continue for the week, (and long into the nights if you’re unfortunate enough to live in the area), thus the nickname of “Silly Season”!

April 2nd was Good Friday of the holy Easter season, and though I no longer practise any form of traditionalreligion, I respect those that do. That being said, in the early hours that morning I actually received my very first glimpse of anything to do with the resurrection or any other aspect of active religious celebrations during this time of “Semana Santa” in La Ceiba.

The procession consisted of a person in a long white robe, dragging a large wooden cross, accompanied by two purple robed people, a truck with its loud speaker and a procession of about 50 people slowly walking along behind. A woman’s voice led bible scriptures interspersed with a mournful chanting dirge that the whole group accompanied as they slowly walked up and down the streets of the barrio. They stopped at one home and continued their recitations before finally adjourning to the local church after almost two hours of public appreciation of their faith.

Sadly, my photos from the patio didn’t turn out but I’m glad to have witnessed at least some small element of spirituality in the midst of “Silly Season”!